Budapest Travelogue

Now that Budapest is no longer under Communist rule, this beautiful, historic city—often referred to as the “Paris of the East” (although much less expensive!)—has once again become a vibrant cultural and artistic center for its almost two-million residents, as well as the most visited destination in Hungary (just one reason the European Haemophilia Consortium will host its annual conference there this fall from October 7-9).

Though Budapest is now known as one city, this wasn’t always the case. In fact, until 1873 it existed as two cities—Buda and Pest. The region itself is ancient, dating back to at least the second millennium BC, when it was settled by nomads during the Great Age of Migrations. You can see many of the original remains of this settlement, even today.

A good overview of Budapest can be had in just a day, but if you have the time, the city is well worth a longer visit.

Get started in Inner Pest, where you can stroll along both grand boulevards (just the thing for the former royals and their carriages!) and picturesque narrow streets. The city is an architectural gem, so make sure you look up now and then so you don’t miss the many interesting details above you. Because much of Budapest was bombed during World War II and construction during the Communist regime was, to put it mildly, drab at best, you may be surprised at the modernity of some of the buildings. Today’s Budapest is a delightful blend of the old and the new.

If you love museums and historical sites, some of the highlights of the area include the Hungarian National Museum, the Budapest Holocaust Memorial Center, and the Inner City Parish Church.

For shopping and strolling, visit Váci utca, with its array of stores, including the Vali Folklor folk craft shop and the VAM Design Gallery. When you’re finished, make your way to the Danube Promenade for a walk along the river, heading toward Budapest’s imposing Parliament building, second in size only to England’s Palace of Westminster. For a look inside, take the 45-minute tour where you’ll have a chance to see the breathtaking Hungarian crown jewels of St. Stephen.

Freedom Square (Szabadsag tér) is a good place for a break. This beautiful park features a large statue that commemorates the Soviet liberation of Hungary at the end of World War II. After leaving the park, walk back to Parliament toward the Chain Bridge, the first bridge to link the cities of Buda and Pest. The idea for the bridge came from the 19th century Hungarian reformer Count Istvan Szechenyi. The story goes that because of storms, the count was unable to cross the river to visit his dying father. It took eight days for the storms to die down, and during that time the count’s father died and he was unable to attend the funeral. The bridge was funded by the count and designed by Englishman William Tierney Clark; when it opened in 1849, it was one of the largest suspension bridges of its time.

Once you cross the Chain Bridge, take the funicular railway up to the Castle District, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The district is made up of two parts: the Royal Palace itself, and what is known as the Castle District. Most of this area is a reconstructed medieval city; the original castle was destroyed in World War II and replaced with the current Royal Palace. (The cobblestone streets can be tricky, so watch where you’re walking.) The Hungarian National Gallery and the Budapest History Museum are also in this area.

If you have more than a day in Budapest, leave the Inner City and Castle District and explore the Outer Ring Boulevard. Start at the New York Palace Hotel, originally commissioned by the New York Life Insurance Company and opened in 1894. It is especially worth seeing at night when it is lit up.

For a more sobering experience, visit the Terror Haza (House of Terror), which served first as the headquarters of the Nazi secret police, and then as headquarters for the Communist secret police. The building is now a memorial to the victims of both fascism and communism.

Leave the horrors of the past behind and take a stroll up another UNESCO World Heritage site, the tree-lined Andrássy Boulevard, toward City Park. If Budapest is known as “Paris of the East,” Andrassy Boulevard is its Champs-Elysees.

At the end of Andrássy Boulevard is Heroes' Square, created for the 1896 millennium, which commemorated the arrival of the Magyar tribes in the Carpathian Basin in 896 AD. More than one thousand years of Hungarian history are represented by the statues in the square, which today is host to many festivals. The nearby Museum of Fine Arts houses the largest collection of foreign art in Hungary, and is considered one of the most significant art collections in Europe.

Once you have crossed the park, you’ll come to the Széchenyi Thermal Bath. One of Budapest’s most popular social activities, thermal bathing is believed by most Hungarians to have great healing powers. Most of the attendants in the public baths don’t speak English, but follow the lead of the locals and choose one or more of the services offered: uszoda (pool); termál (thermal pool); fürdo (bath); gozfürdo (steam bath); massage; and/or sauna.

Budapest is a cosmopolitan city and offers an array of cultural events and entertainment, from opera, ballet, and classical music to movies, bars and clubs, and casinos. Tickets are generally affordable (and certainly much less expensive than in larger cities such as Paris, New York, London, and Tokyo). Nightlife gets started late and goes until the wee hours, so if you’re a night owl, this is the place for you. Some of the hot spots for young people in the city are Liszt Ferenc Square, with its many bars, restaurants, and cafes; Raday utca, known as the “Soho” of Budapest; and the Ruins Pub, located in the very old buildings of the city center where you can have a beer and listen to live music.

For more information on travel to Budapest, visit www.tourinform.hu. For more information about the European Haemophilia Consortium, visit www.ehc2011.eu.